Analyzing the Results

On April 16, 2013, the students met to discuss the results of their product testing sessions. For the past week, the students and faculty worked with volunteers who filled out a survey and were then body scanned both with and without the product. In examining the difference between wearing and not wearing the product, a slight improvement in shoulder slouch was revealed. The class tried to determine the significance in these changes in points of measure with and without the product, but the low sample number made this difficult. As such, they could not identify any major trends in the data. The class also determined potential variables affecting the results including worn undergarments and breathing in versus breathing out at the time of the scan.









In the second half of the session, the class worked on creating product styles in Lectra's PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) software. In their final tech pack, students will include product description and objectives, colors, sizes, size specifications with graded measurements, construction specifications, and bill of materials for fabrics and trims. They also added new fabrics to the database that were used in their products.

Next week, the students will be participating in Fashion Week. They will be exhibiting a poster describing the project and their products at the dessert reception on Monday.

Making Progress

                                                                           

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The first week in April, the students began recruiting people to test their products. They also prepared for the testing, which starts next week, by reviewing the IRB rules and how to use the body scanner. The groups even developed materials for their product test subjects, such as a video on how to take your own measurements. 

Throughout the week, the students continued creating and improving prototypes in preparation for the testing. 

With the help of Dr. Istook, the students even went down in the pilot lab and dyed the material for the straps black.

This week, the students will begin to gather their data on their prototypes, taking shifts to meet with the participants. 

Prototypes Round Two

On Tuesday, March 26, the students presented their second round of prototypes to faculty members. They took the feedback from the first prototypes and improved the garments in preparation for testing on subjects.

As stated earlier, one group was creating a men's posture brace that focused on rehabilitation and improving posture. The previous prototype featured an athletic polyester / spandex blend mesh, an elastic and silicone band, and velcro closure. With their second prototype, the students widened the inner straps, moved the connection point down, and made the outer straps more adjustable. Moving forward, they still need to find a way to keep the loose ends from flapping.

Front of the second prototype for men

Back of the second prototype for men

The other group was creating a women's posture bra that helps with back and neck pain while also being aesthetically pleasing and fashionable (without losing the function). Their original creation was a sporty bra with a deep V-neck neckline, peek-a-boo shoulder, wide elastic band, and fitted breast cups. With their second prototype, the students changed the base fabric, added a lace overlay for aesthetics and to look more like an undergarment, made the elastic banding narrower, and put in a black elastic band to conform to the overall color scheme.

Front of the second prototype for women

Back of the second prototype for women

Next week, the students will begin recruiting volunteers to test their products and hold body scanning sessions for those chosen to participate.

Body Scanning Session

On Thursday, March 14, the students met in the apparel lab to work with the body scanner, a machine which provides non-contact points of measure, and to talk about the upcoming live fit model sessions. First, the class discussed which measurements they would like for the body scanner to extract and how they will use those measurements. They also tried to determine whether the body scanner can be used to determine if the subjects’ posture was improved by wearing the posture garment. Throughout the discussion, the class kept in mind the protocol outlined in the IRB. 

  

Next the students had the opportunity to work with the body scanner and learn how to use it. They looked at different possible measurements from the body scanner and determined which would be most useful / valuable. They chose from upper-body measurements for the neck, collar, chin, shoulder, arms, chest, and bust. The students also had to determine how to ensure that the measurements are correct (such as with the waist location, as it is not always at the narrowest part of the body).

Lastly, one of the students volunteered to jump into the body scanner and get scanned both wearing and not wearing the product prototype. One problem that was identified was with garments that had black on them, as the machine extracted these areas from the final image. The result was an avatar with long legs and arms and a short torso.  They also worked out kinks with some of the measurements.

Next week, the students will present their second prototypes based on student and faculty suggestions.

Prototype Presentations

On Thursday, February 28, the students presented their first prototypes to faculty members and demonstrated their understanding of the interplay between the anatomy of the body and the garments.

First, Lauren presented her men's posture brace, assisted by her fit model. Her team's goal at the beginning of the semester was to create a product that focused more on rehabilitation (as opposed to the women's everyday bra) and improved posture. They made several changes to the original product including changing the fabric to a more athletic mesh, removing the channel / casing waistband to remove bulk, creating a wider outer cap sleeve, using elastic with silicone, increasing the length of the straps, and making it more manly. Their final prototype used a polyester / spandex blend for the main body part, 100% polyester side pieces, elastic with a silicone strip, and a velcro closure. Throughout the development process, the students realized the complexity and extensive time involved in prototyping. They also learned how important it was to work with the direction of the stretch in the fabrics in order to optimize key areas of the product.  Moving forward, the students would like to change the strap length to accomodate the small/medium/large size runs, use velcro as a way to adjust strap length, change the order of operations to be more productive, and make the straps wider (one inch rather than spaghetti straps). They would also like to accomodate a 10-inch height variable between sizes in order to account for varying torso lengths. The fit model also provided some insight (though the product was too small for him). He would like the product to keep the v-neck (rather than the scoop neck) and to be longer (reaching below his ribs). He also really liked the material.

Secondly, Curry, Morgan, and Laura presented their prototype for the women's posture bra. Their team's goal at the beginning of the semester was to create a bra that helps women with back and neck pain but is more aesthetically pleasing and fashionable without losing function. It was intended to be more preventive ("an everyday bra") than rehabilitative. Such a product would be more marketable, as it would appeal to a wider range of females. They made several changes to the original product including making a deep V-neck neckline, putting the straps closer together for more of a peek-a-boo shoulder, and making the breast cups more fitted. They also used fabric for the side panels that had less stretch than the front and back panels and a wide elastic band across the bottom (to fit closely to the body). The result was a sporty look that looks like a crop top and would definitely appeal to the athletic market. As they continue through the semester, the students plan to make a product that looks more like an undergarment (such as with lace overlays). They would also like to experiment with more structured cups (to make the chest look normal under everyday clothing). They will also need to work with grading in order to accomodate how body proportion affects garment fit. The class ended with a discussion on aesthetic and functional improvements; students and faculty debated the virtues of using silicone on the elastic, a thinner elastic band, a deeper V-neck, and a smaller front piece. Going forward, the students will need to work with more body types / proportions to test fit.

Prototyping

On February 21, the students worked on their prototypes in the apparel lab. The group creating the men's brace discussed alternative closure methods to the zipper. The group creating the women's product explored alternative necklines that are more feminine (such as a sweetheart). Students also considered their potential fit models in creating their products.

The class also prepared for the presentation of their prototypes to faculty and industry next Thursday. The presentations will include an overview of the search for materials, fabric choices, stich types, testing methods, product goals, and how the students assessed fit and needs. They will also discuss how they plan to  move forward with the product development project after spring break.






The school also just received a new machine that does lapped seams from the 600 stitch class, which the students will be able to utilize in creating their products.

Also, the school received materials donations from Hornewood Inc., Asheboro Elastic, and Cotton Inc., which the students greatly appreciate and will be utilizing in their products.

Testing Round Two

On February 20, the students met with Dr. Michielson to conduct round two of testing (sans machine error this time). Several cotton and polyester / spandex blends were tested.

 
Reading the graphs produced by the histeresis mahcine helped the students to clearly identify which fabrics to incorporate into their products, based on the elastic recovery. Again, certain parts of the product necessitate specific types of stretch, which the class has identified and will accomodate. In the next session, the students will discuss their fabric choices and make final decisions as they prepare to ebgin the construction of their prototypes.

Making Progress

On February 14 (Valentine's Day, to the dismay of the students!), the class discussed the project moving forward. It was determined that each team (since there is one team for a women's product and one team for a men's product) will create three protoypes--a small, a medium, and a large. Several students have already begun experimenting with their potential fabric choices and construction methods.

The class also talked about the IRB (Institutional Review Board) paperwork, which consists of the submission form and an informed consent form for subject participation. Anytime you work with human subjects where the data you collect may be used outside of the classroom, you need to have approval from the IRB office. It was important that the students participated in this step, as it is part of the process and so that they know the limitations for when testing begins. As a group, the students and faculty made changes to most accurately reflect the protoyping and testing processes that will occur later on in the semester. The students will also be conducting a survey of the participants and had submitted potential questions prior to class. The point of this survey is to more fully understand the needs of the intended market and to identify areas for improvement in the product.

Finally, it was determined that each student will recruit one male and one female to test the products after Spring Break, hopefully from a variety of sizes.

Next week, the students will meet to once again test their fabric samples for stretch and recovery so that they may make final fabric selections and begin constructing prototypes as soon as possible.

Testing the Fabrics

On February 7, the students worked with Dr. Michielsen to conduct histeresis tests on their fabric samples. These tests allowed them to test for stretch and recovery, as they do not want permanent distortion to occur in the product.

However, the tests did not yield proper results due to some problems with the machine. The students will test the samples again next week, at which point they will determine the fabrics to be used in their prototypes.

About TransDRY

Check out the link below for some cool videos demonstrating the TransDRY technology in action!

http://www.cottoninc.com/product/Product-Technology/Moisture-Management/Transdry/Multimedia/

Meeting With Cotton Incorporated

On February 1, David Earley, Senior Director of Global Supply Chain Marketing at Cotton Incorporated, came to talk to the students about Cotton Inc.'s TransDRY performance fabric. By integrating functional finishes, Cotton Incorporated can build demand for cotton. Several companies, including Under Armour, currently use the TransDRY performance cotton in their products.

The TransDRY fabrics feature a blend of specially-treated water-repellent cotton and naturally absorbent untreated cotton to create an overall aboserbent capacity that mimics polyester and nylon. These treated and untreated fibers work together to help transfer moisture so that the fabric dries faster and does not become over-saturated during exercise. They also allow fabric to wick and spread perspiration as well as, or better than, most high-tech synthetic fabrics but without sacrificing the comfort and softness of cotton. The students looked at dozens of fabric samples of varying weights and with different properties. They also tested each one with water droplets in order to examine how the fabrics managed moisture.

Some fabrics moved moisture horizontally or vertically while others moved moisture from the skin side to the outside of the fabric.

The students then began to consider the needs of the bra and which fabrics (cotton versus synthetic) would be appropriate for different areas of the product (based on properties and performance).

They left the meeting with the assignment to compile a "wish list" of ideal properties that the fabrics in the product would have and that they would like to test for in the fabric samples. They also prepared to reverse engineer the sample products in order to better understand the construction and to create patterns for prototyping.

Anatomy of a Bra

On January 31, Dr. Istook gave a presentation on the construction of bras and the corresponding terminologies.

The students also learned about taking accurate measurements, fit, cross grading, and common fitting solutions. Many were surprised to learn that all same cup sizes are not equal and that band measurements impact cup size. Backed with this information, the students began to brainstorm how they could improve the posture bra by taking into consideration the various components of the product.

The students ended the session by considering which types of materials to incorporate into the product. They examined numerous fabrics donated by Hornwood that included polyester, nylon, and spandex blends in varying compositions.

Orthopedics Meets Fashion at NCSU!

GUEST BLOG: Mary Fenske

Good posture is associated with confidence, elegance and good health. For hundreds of years women and men wore corsets for support. Poor posture has many negative health effects - from pain, loss of movement, nerve problems and diminished respiration. Bad posture typically causes back, neck and shoulder pain brought on by lifestyle, occupation, injury, illness, aging or genetic disposition. Posture Wings^tm was founded by Mary Fenske. Ms. Fenske created Posture Wings^tm (PW) out of her own need to resolve debilitating spinal and cervical issues caused by poor posture. After years of assorted therapies and researching every type of posture and cervical remedy including: wearing braces, having her skin taped, exercises and Chiropractic, massage and Physical Therapy. It was clear that there was no effective or comfortable solution to improve posture. She also discovered that she was not alone in her pain! US statistics rank back pain as the #1 cause for absenteeism and Labor & Industry claims, and ranked the 2^nd reason why Americans seek medical care (upper respiratory #1).

Physical Therapists tape skin in effort to “cue” the body into proper alignment but does not support the body. None of the commercial braces achieved both functions necessary to improve posture - supporting the thoracic/upper spine and hold the shoulders posterior. Additionally, the braces that hold the shoulder are designed to encircle the arms, and that approach reduces freedom of movement and constricts blood flow making the garment very uncomfortable. All the braces are made out of elastic and Velcro or overall compression and not engineered for comfort or fashion.

The PW goal was to create a solution that would support both the spine and shoulders while allowing for freedom of movement. The solution would then be incorporated in comfortable garments for men, women and children that could be worn all day to assist in long term beneficial posture positioning. PW was awarded a Utility Patent and an Entrepreneur Grant with the University of Washington (Orthopedic Dept.) to conduct a 3 month bio-mechanic study on a prototype garment. The study results concluded that the garment had a strengthening effect on the muscles of the back and neck improving posture and relieving associated pain and increasing range of movement!  PW created the first proven beneficial posture garment that supports the spine and allows for freedom of movement.

The next step is to create assorted garments for men and woman that meet today’s lifestyles that will be for both prevention and rehabilitation purposes. That is what brings Posture Wings^tm to North Carolina! Mrs. Fenske wanted the garments Made in the USA and to work with the best innovative designers. Attending the IFAI show in Boston, MA, where Dr. Godfrey the Dean of the NCSU College of Textile gave the keynote speech and described the schools vast capabilities and their purpose to educate and drive innovation. Three professors Dr. Michielsen (Technical Textiles and Health), Dr. Istook (Technical Design, Sizing & Mass Customization) and Dr. Carroll (Health, Safety and Technical design) along with PW founder created a special project class to help evolve the PW garments.